How to Travel Your Donkey
No-one is ever going to show or go anywhere when they embark on donkey owning, but that soon changes when they see how much pleasure others get out of shows and events.
The type of trailer is largely governed by economics, ensuring that your donkey is willing to share your anticipation of this new found freedom is another!!
Loading Tips for Donkey Owners
Has been compiled by a member who regularly loads and travels her donkeys and is based on a number of elements which need to be accomplished comfortably before moving onto the next, as a practical guide for anyone hoping to get out and about with their donkeys.
When a donkey refuses to enter a trailer it can be frustrating and embarrassing experience and one that will take time to overcome.
Training the donkey at home is essential, not at a show or event where you are under pressure; but in a relaxed environment when there plenty of time, and it forms part of a relationship building process.
You would not expect a donkey to drive or ride well without giving it time to learn, so in this context asking a donkey to go into an enclosed space that moves, is far more psychologically demanding, and the learning process will take time.
From experience it is best not to ask lots of friends to gather behind the donkey to force it in. When a donkey gets frightened it tends to freeze, refusing to move when requested. Similarly if smacked and cajoled at this stage a donkey will generally jump to avoid the trailer, either forwards over the ramp, or backwards straight into your well meaning friends.
It is far better to work upon the following with just one calm assistant:
The First Steps
1) Walk your donkey to the foot of the ramp. Stand on the left hand side of your donkey as usual then turn to face its shoulder.
2) Hold the leading rope in your left hand, the remainder coming across your front to be held in your right hand.
3) Stretch your left hand out to the side, directing your donkey towards the trailer. If it does not move spin the remainder of the rope that is in your right hand in a circle near the donkey's flank.
4) As the donkey steps forward straighten your elbow so that you direct it up the ramp.
5) If it starts to walk up the ramp you may let go of the rope with one hand to allow the donkey to continue forwards, then STAND STILL. It should be in the shape of a skipping rope, yet not touching the ground. When it stops half way up the ramp DO NOTHING. This is the donkey?s thinking time. If you try to push it up now it will back out. If you leave it alone it will most probably walk on in.
6) If it stands for a considerable time, start again (number one above), from your position on the ramp. If it moves sideways off the ramp, or goes backwards, ALLOW IT TO, then start all over again from number one. If it refuses to move on the ramp, push it backwards to the bottom of the ramp and start again.
7) When the donkey moves up the ramp and half way into the trailer simply pass the end of the leading rope from your right hand to your left AND WAIT. No clicking or pushing required, your donkey is checking out the inside, give it time. If it backs out ? push it backwards further then start again from the beginning If it walks all the way in ? DO NOTHING - simply wait until it turns around to come out, or, in the case of a trailer with a partition, it backs out. It is extremely important to allow the donkey to learn how to come out, without feeling it has got itself trapped. 8) Play around with steps 1-8 as though you were schooling your donkey. Do not be too particular. Once it has been in and out a few times you may find it chooses to stand in there to get some peace. Leave it for a while, then go into the trailer and lead it out. You have finished today.
The Next Occasion
9) Start by completing one to eight above taking as much time as your donkey needs.
10) Once the donkey has chosen to stay in the trailer for 60 seconds, either facing forwards or towards you, follow it into the trailer. Repeat this step a few times, to start with it may go to leave the trailer when you get in, simply agree and lead it down the ramp. Repeat steps nine and ten.
11) Once it can stand in with you ask your assistant to close the ramp for a few seconds at a time. Gradually increase the time to a minute or two.
12) When the ramp is shut, ask your friend to pass a feed to you and stand next to your donkey stroking it whilst it eats.
13) Lower the ramp and allow your donkey to walk you out. If it rushes out, allow it enough rope to do so. DO NOT TRY TO STOP IT, this is how people can get injured, because the harder you pull the faster they go. Simply acquire a longer rope and once the donkey is out, turn it. Then repeat steps 1-8 until it walks out calmly.
14) If the donkey persists in rushing down the ramp in a dangerous manner, simply turn its rump to the ramp before it is opened, and ask it to back out. To do this you face your donkey?s nose, place one hand either side of its headcollar and lean your stomach (in the case of a standard donkey) against its face, and walk forward. Or, you can place your right hand on its chest or nose and push there. If at first it refuses to back up, wait and ask again. Do not allow it to turn around, remember you want a slow exit. The donkey will become impatient before you will; once it learns it can only leave backwards, it will start to move that way. (Make sure you have side gates if your ramp is very steep, otherwise it should not matter if your donkey steps off the ramp sideways accidentally the first few times.)
The Final Step
15) Once your donkey has loaded, introduce a short drive of a hundred yards or so in between shutting the ramp (step 11) and feeding (step 12).
Make sure you have stopped before you offer the feed. This will associate movement with the approach of something pleasurable.
16) Keep the first few journeys short and sweet.
17) Never drive above 45 miles per hour.
Danger areas
Many people have tried the following ideas, and all have learnt that they can lead to disaster:
1) It is unwise to take a long rope and thread it through the tying ring in the trailer in an attempt to lever the donkey in. A donkey is far too strong and fast. As it backs up your hand will be taken to the ring and trapped. You will most probably lose a finger. I have seen this happen!
2) Do not approach the rear of the donkey with jumping poles, breeching straps or brooms in an attempt to frighten, drag, or push it in. The whole idea is to gain its confidence and obedience. You can only do this if you speak clearly to its mind. A panicking donkey backing into a person with a jumping pole is potentially very dangerous.
3) Do not stand in the middle of the trailer space if you want the donkey to enter it, stand to one side. If you fill the space with your body you are not saying, ?Look it is safe in here!? you are in fact saying, ?There?s no room for you, I need all the space!?
4) Having loaded the donkey successfully there is a huge temptation to slam up the ramp. Do not do it!
I have seen people in such a hurry they have trapped ropes, fingers, or even the donkeys? foot in the process.
It is a terrifying experience for the donkey, and potentially dangerous for the person who has accompanied the donkey inside.
Further suggestions
A) If there is a front ramp it can sometimes help to open it up to allow light through. If you are asking your donkey in, rather than forcing it, it will not barge through at great speed. If it asks to go straight out the front simply ask it to half-halt, then walk out with it. Once you have gained its trust it will stand in the trailer happily when both ramps are down or up.
If you have a donkey that will definitely barge through, as it has had previous fears, just open the top door above the ramp and work upon the stages 1) to 8) above.
B) If the donkey really refuses to move, practise leading it into other confined spaces; small stables, alleyways between buildings. Generally improve your relationship so you can lead him/her around. Follow another donkey into these situations to make it more forward thinking. Then approach the trailer and ask again, perhaps following another donkey with a positive attitude.
Happy loading
Transporter Authorisations - New EC Legislation 1/2005
From 5th January 2007 anyone transporting vertebrate animals inside the European Union on journeys of over 65 kilometres (approximately 40 miles) as part of an economic activity must hold a valid authorisation to do so. Whilst this is unlikley to affect the average donkey owner transporting their own donkeys, there may be occasions where tranport undertaken on their behalf by a third party would require one.
1. Who needs to have an Authorisation?
Those transporting live vertebrate animals as part of an "economic activity" for distances over 65km will need an Authorisation. The Regulation does not define "economic activity" but is envisaged to cover any person or company involved with the transportation of animals, undertaken as part of a business or commercial activity aimed at (directly or indirectly) achieving financial gain. Such transport would most likely include journeys undertaken by:
- hauliers
- farmers
- commercial pet breeders
- dog trainers
- horse trainers
- zoos and leisure parks
- animal laboratories
2. Who does not need an Authorisation?
You will not require an Authorisation `for transporting animals if the journey is not in connection with an "economic activity". This will include journeys:
- not in the course of business or trade;
- not for hire or reward;
- consisting of a single animal accompanied by a ,person who has responsibility for its welfare (or two.animals accompanied by two people);
- where pet animals are accompanied by their owner on a private journey;
- where pet animals-are taken to or from a specialist show or competition and the primary purpose is for pleasure rather than as part of a business;
- where horses and ponies are transported by an owner for the purpose of riding, showing or competing for pleasure e.g. show jumping, gymkhanas etc. However, a haulier paid to take such animals to shows etc would require an Authorisation;
- where individuals attending shows or competitions primarily for pleasure share the burden of transport e.g. petrol costs, but where there is no profit made by the individual undertaking the transport;
- undertaken by the armed forces or public services during the course of their official duties; involving the transportation of circus animals where the transport vehicle can be regarded as the animal's housing.
Comprehensive guidance will be published shortly on the Defra website www-defra.qov. uk/ani_malh/welfare/
